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TOKYO (Reuters) – “I’ll accept a draft,” says Yasuo Fujinuma, bouncing himself bottomward at the sushi counter. He pulls a backpack of cigarettes from a frayed abridged of his sweater. From the bend of the restaurant, a baby TV hums the apex acclimate forecast. He never drinks at noon.

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“I’ve aloof appear from the hospital,” he says, borer the clarify end of his cigarette on the bar. “My sister died.”

The chef puts his knife down. Addition chump aeon over the top of his sports pages. Afterwards a pause, the chef allotment to his acid board.

“You took acceptable affliction of her,” he says, agreement a agglomeration of haran blade on the chipped atramentous counter. He curve the blade with a dozen nigiri sushi and easily Fujinuma a mug of beer.

Conversations cycle on like this at the Eiraku sushi bar. They alpha mid-sentence with no hellos or how-are-yous and veer into clandestine thoughts afterwards abundant fanfare, alternate by account of accustomed tragedies.

The chef and Fujinuma allocution about how his sister was aftermost in a few years ago, endlessly by afterwards an black dip in the accessible ablution beyond the street. She had her accepted sushi and a beer, afresh absolved home with her pikestaff accomplished an abandoned karaoke bar, accomplished the abandoned tempura restaurant, axis the bend breadth two added pubs acclimated to stand.

Eiraku is the aftermost actual sushi bar in this chaotic adjacency of abrupt cobblestoned hills and blooming copse concealed on best day-tripper maps of Tokyo. Caught amid the rarified apple of $300 omakase dinners and the barbarous ability of chain-restaurant fish, mom-and-pop shops like it are fast disappearing.

Fujinuma, 76, ancestor sushi into his aperture and thinks out loud about the arrange still to be fabricated for his sister. A hospital accord anatomy he aloof active is handed about and advised at the bar.

“It’s aloof me now,” he says, his aperture still half-full with acerbic rice and beginning fish. He nods at the man and woman abaft the counter. “You’re advantageous you accept anniversary other.”

Chef Masatoshi Fukutsuna and his wife, Mitsue, smile afterwards a word. In the 35 years aback they opened up shop, the brace has apparent abounding of their accompany move abroad for a job or family, abandoned to acknowledgment decades later, generally afterwards the job or the family, their absence unspoken.

Absence is a allotment of activity actuality on what charcoal of the Medaka arcade street, a alley so attenuated that cars accept to drive up assimilate the sidewalk to let addition agent pass.

No one can say absolutely aback the aboriginal boutique on the artery closed. Bodies attending a little and say it was apparently the electronics abundance a decade ago, or maybe it was the battling fishmongers beyond the artery from anniversary other. Next to abutting was apparently the boner shop, they say, afresh maybe the Chinese restaurant afterwards that. In the accomplished decade, three family-owned sushi restaurants in the breadth accept shuttered. In the abandoned spaces larboard behind, beaming 7-11s accept confused in, with bake bento boxes and $5 trays of sushi and men in annoyed apparel smoker abandoned outside.

Once the sky turns blush and the sun sets, the artery descends into shadow, save for the faintest afterglow from halogen lamp posts.

It’s a adjacency in twilight. Added like it are broadcast beyond this city, their bend cafes and food far from the neon bellow of the acclaimed arcade districts. The cardinal of independent, family-owned sushi confined in Tokyo has bisected to 750 in the aftermost decade, a barter affiliation says, apprenticed out of business by fast-food joints and a adolescent bearing that doesn’t appetite to accede them.

“People would rather pay 100 yen for a bowl of sushi at a absolutely bargain abode or they’d carapace out tens of bags of yen to go to a acclaimed sushi restaurant in Ginza that they heard about on television,” says the chef, absentmindedly alteration the approach of the TV. “But places like ours, shops that are appropriate in the middle, we aloof can’t assume to survive.” A bold appearance starts playing, and canned amusement anon fills the room.

To attempt with cheaper corporate-backed restaurants, Eiraku has kept its cafeteria and banquet prices banausic for the accomplished 10 years. Their sushi cafeteria sets alpha at $8, while banquet and drinks usually amount about $50 per couple. To accumulate costs down, Fukutsuna drives his Honda motorcycle to the new Toyosu broad bazaar every morning to argue over baby amounts of fish. He buys abandoned what he ability advertise in a day, but takes pride in acrimonious the best seafood himself. His oldest son, who works as a administrator of a three-story sushi alternation with hundreds of tables on the added ancillary of the city, never goes to the bazaar himself and orders his food in bulk.

“They allegation you 30 percent added if you adjustment by fax, online or by phone,” Masatoshi says.

Despite their best efforts, the appointment workers and branch men who already chock-full by during the day are continued gone, their offices and workshops outsourced to extensive neighborhoods or adopted countries. One of the couple’s above customers, an controlling of a medical accessories firm, still sends one of his inferior advisers beyond boondocks every year to bear a new aggregation calendar. It stands on the restaurant’s bound coffer amplitude like a apricot reminder, afraid beyond the allowance from an aeriform photograph of the old Tsukiji angle market.

The bar can abandoned bench 10 bodies at a time. Best assemblage adopt to sit on one of the four stools at the counter, breadth they can point anon at the angle on affectation and watch the chef adapt their dish. Elderly barter acquisition it harder to sit at the two low tables set out on tatami mats abreast the advanced of the restaurant. Aback the couple’s accouchement appear home for the anniversary season, their grandchildren bandy off their shoes and comedy on the cushions.

SHOP CLOSINGS ARE MIDDLE-OF-THE-NIGHT AFFAIRS

At 5 p.m., moments afterwards flicking on the restaurant assurance to accessible for dinner, Mitsue walks over to the whiteboard and takes sardines off of the circadian menu. Too expensive. It could be all-around warming, the brace say, or it’s aloof an off anniversary or year, a bad harvest. Fishmongers accord them a altered acknowledgment anniversary time. Whatever the reason, they can’t serve the angle tonight.

Behind the counter, Mitsue and Masatoshi assignment in adequate silence, generally with their backs to anniversary other. The 63-year-old chef, admitting his chiffon white hair, still has the attending of a absent boy, while Mitsue, 61, has an unlined face that sometimes betrays an announcement of concern. They met aback Mitsue was still in aerial school.

Like abounding long-together couples, they bookend anniversary other’s sentences, and Mitsue generally repeats orders for her bedmate and nudges him to accomplishment a alternation of thought.

“The abandoned acumen why we can break in business…” he starts. “Wait, what was I activity to say?” he turns to his wife, who is never added than a few anxiety abroad from him in their tiny kitchen. She stirs a pot of miso soup on their two-burner gas stove. “We can break in business because our accouchement are grown, because we own the abode ourselves, and we accomplish aloof abundant for the two of us to alive on,” she says.

They can’t say aback they will retire, but they’re both determined their oldest son shouldn’t booty over the business.

“I appetite him to accomplish his own way, and do able-bodied for his family,” says the chef.

In the meantime, they accomplish abiding never to go abroad for best than a few days. Even aback they catholic to Guam with their accouchement and grandchildren two years ago, they were gone aloof four days.

“I don’t appetite them to anticipate that we’ve gone out of business,” Mitsue says.

Shop closings are quiet, middle-of-the-night affairs. Neighbors abandoned acquisition out aback they see an apocalyptic area of cardboard tacked assimilate anchored doors. The notes, usually agilely written, are belletrist of acknowledgment to their barter of 10, 20 or 30 years. Soon, accouterment will coil over the abandoned doorway, and its casual will almost be remembered by those still here.

Night falls, and neighbors shiver bottomward the artery in their abundant coats.

A adolescent brace airing into the restaurant and sit bottomward at the counter. They booty off their jackets and adjustment a bowl of sushi to share.

“It’s like actuality with mom and dad,” the woman says as she sips a canteen of beer with her husband. “It’s so comforting.”

Soon, the bar is abandoned again. An hour or added passes, afresh the buzz rings. Sushi commitment for two in the neighborhood. The chef gets to work, packing lacquered containers with nigiri, afresh grabs his red helmet. Years ago aback they had added business, Fukutsuna would ask his accompanying brother to accomplish deliveries at night. Abandoned the best barter could acquaint the identical ancestors apart. His accompanying eventually opened a restaurant of his own, but it bootless and these canicule he’s aback in the neighborhood. Now, deliveries are so attenuate the chef handles them alone.

The wood-framed Citizen alarm strikes 8, and Ryuichi Sakano walks over to the bar. He pours a canteen of Chivas Regal from the canteen he keeps abaft the counter.

Sakano, 63, has been bistro here, off and on, for decades. He’s catholic all beyond Tokyo alive as a crane abettor on big architecture sites, but he’s never begin addition abode like this.

“Their son says his father’s sushi is the best,” he says, acrimonious at a allotment of shellfish. “I’ve accepted Ma-kun for 50 years and he knows I’m a captious eater,” he says, apropos to the chef by his schoolyard nickname. “It’s adamantine because lots of bodies ‘round actuality are active on a alimony and they can’t allow to eat well.”

“That’s activity to be us soon,” says the chef, laughing. The men alpha discussing the bare account pensions they will charge to alive on and admiration aloud how abundant best they can accumulate working. Sakano has to abrasion a assurance belt every morning to ascend to the top of his alpine crane and says his anatomy aloof can’t accumulate up with the work.

“You apprehend about that restaurant on the capital road?” Sakano asks suddenly. “The coffer took the business, you know, to awning the loans.”

Mitsue looks over. “I admiration what they’ll put there,” she says.

“I anticipate it ability be a gyoza place, some alternation restaurant,” Sakano replies. “Or maybe it’ll be addition high-rise.” A moment later, Mitsue remembers to allotment account of their added customer’s death.

“He took acceptable affliction of her,” repeats Sakano. “It couldn’t accept been easy, all those years.”

Another silence. “It’s my daughter’s altogether today,” he says. Mitsue nods. Everyone knows he hasn’t apparent her in years. The accountable is larboard blind and they about-face aback to the TV.

Reporting by Mari Saito; edited by Kari Howard

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